PARIS FASHION WEEK: CÉLINE AW16Thursday, March 10, 2016
Paris Fashion Week, to me, has always seemed like this distant yet entrancing affair, an event which sort of floats on a separate stake above the other offerings from fashion month, but such high view of the French fashion capital may be solely due to the romanticised reputation of the city in which this particular fashion week plays host. I do dream of visiting Paris after all, but doesn't everyone? Which is the point exactly. Although, Paris Fashion Week is not just solely a delightful thought without substance, certainly it is a manifestation of the beauty and illustrious nature of the city itself. With it, PFW incessantly delivers a showcase in abundance of some of the most highly coveted and critically acclaimed designer labels of current notoriety such as Acne Studios and the powerhouse that is Chanel. However, an ever-delivering brand and continuous standout favourite of mine just has to be the French ready-to-wear brand Celine, a label championed by designer Phoebe Philo (rumours have been swirling that this collection may be her last for the brand although, reportedly the like has been denied) for its effortless yet intriguing appeal, something which needs no introduction - just look to the likes of Zara to see Philo's dominating influence on the fashion industry in effect. In just through browsing the high-street and online alike it is hard not to notice Celine's ungoverned control in the fast-fashion overdrive - a practise that is arguably polluting the creator's innovative process in itself.
On a lighter note, and such term is meant in literal, sartorial form - if this AW16 collection is to be her last, Phoebe Philo certainly did not disappoint. The collection plays out in one seamless flow of light-weight fabric and cuts, in a holistic view of course such is in typical Celine style yes, but this time the lengths were longer - and not just the sleeves - trousers and dresses alike instead billowed in a draped effect, but not in a sense that appears slouchy - the Celine effect is effortless and relaxed, yes, yet still perfectly put together. To put it simply, the signature of Celine is a full ensemble embodiment of plush, silk fabric and, what a wonder such is, particularly when said signature manifests itself in the form of butter melting shine and colour, beige, golds, orange and whites ooze an alluring desirability that cannot be matched. With such a visually pleasing collection, it is easy to see why high-street favourite Zara chooses to con it's inspiration from what is an undoubtedly, captivating source.
Alongside the ever entrancing fluidness of Philo fabric, other, more innovative elements were at play. Dark material of black shade worked in contrast to the light-weight essence of the collection however, even with strong collars, leather and thicker layering, the overlying feel of femininity - one that is devoid of fuss still translated in an effortless, natural motion. No ensemble was out of place, even with a slight adornment of an abstract chain-belt or a small bag, it is that satisfying fluid, free-flowing philosophy that Phoebe Philo creates that is so fulfilling without the need for any unnecessary bulk. A Celine collection, particularly this AW16 offering, is invariably well formulated yet also simultaneously devoid of sartorial structure, such is an attribute which is almost oxymoron in nature but at the same time it signifies that the Celine way is one of mysterious artistry in uncomplicated and unapologetic form.
(All pictures taken from vogue.co.uk)